Treat Yourself

If getting to work by bike requires multi-modal logistics from getting dropped off at the station, taking the bus, then riding an hour.. treat yourself!

That's what I do. :)

I take a coffee stop (cappuccino and a treat) for second breakfast, then order a smoothie when I get to work to tide me over until lunch.

Flat Kit Tip

A little tip for putting your tube in your flat kit.

ONE

Take off the lil' collar nut, because a) you don't really need it and b) if you think you need it, there should already be one on your bike and c) it can rub your tube wrong while in your kit and put a hole in it! Really. It's happened to me before.

TWO

Put your tube in a plastic sack so that it SLIPS easily into your flat kit and has an extra layer of protection from rubbing on other things in your kit.

VOILA!

And in case you wanted to catch what's inside my flat kit:

*I have many bikes and each has a different flat kit! This is just ONE example of A flat kit that I carry on my light/fast bike. My commuter bike, on the other hand, has a much larger pump, a larger multi tool that includes a chain tool, spare batteries, and more! My mountain bike has a chain tool, a spare derailleur hanger, lube and even a emergency whistle and flint!

The BASIC flat kit should have:

1. Tire levers to get tire on and off
2. Patch kit
3. Tube in case the patch kit doesn't work out or for a faster change
4. Source of air-- whether pump or CO2
5. A multi-tool for on-road maintenance. Even if you don't know how to fix it, a passing cyclist may!

Other items that are nice to have in a flat kit or rack bag:

• Tire boot, for patching the TIRE, not the tube. A dollar bill or wrapper also works in a pinch.
• Cash, for buying a phone call, bus fare or a Snickers bar.
• Chain tool and spare chain link.
• Spare batteries for lights.
• Spare generic/temporary derailleur hanger (most common for mountain biking).
• Emergency snack, like a lil' bag of Luna Moons!
• Tiny bottle of lube.

It's also a good idea to carry with you:

• Cell phone
• Identification
• Debit card
• Insurance card
• CAMERA! ;)

Bike Mirror Review

This is the best bike mirror in the world.

Didn't know that one could be so passionate about a mirror, did you? Well-- I've been through a number of mirrors and THIS is the one I took on my summer tour (across the U.S.) and this is the one I will put on every bike that needs a mirror.

Initially I ended up with this mirror because it was pretty much the only one that would work with drop handlebars with bar-end shifters. I also liked how the mirror extended away from the bike. I've found that mirrors that are too close to the bike make me squirm on my bike in order to see what I want to see-- and what I get to see isn't that much in the first place, because the mirror is tryin' to be all small-like so that I don't ram into it with my knees.. which I manage to do anyway. That said, I've met people who swear by the road bar-end mirror (see photo, right).

I've also tried one of those super sexy mirrors that you stick to your helmet. In all fairness, I did not gi

ve it much of a chance before tearing it off my head. It's like-- if you were watching tv, and it's your favorite program-- but there is this GIANT BEETLE crawling all over it! AHH!! GET OFF! GO AWAY! I'M TRYING TO WATCH 30 ROCK! Except the tv program is your bike ride, of course. That said, I know people 

who swear by this little guy too (see photo, left). I just don't like tilting my head all funny like that gold robot guy from Star Wars, changing my focus and well, looking geeky. 

I can't say that I've ever tried the mirror-inside-the-sunglass thing-- but I've pretty much ruled it out, as I don't always wear my sunglasses (or the same lenses, anyway) on my bike. And again-- bug on the tv screen. No, thank you.

And recently, I've even tried this guy on my road bike with STI shifters (common modern shifter; the shifting is integrated into the

 brake lever unit, instead of being on the bar-end like on my touring bike). Initially, I was pretty stoked-- because I thought I'd be able to take the mirror on and off fairly easily for s

witching between commuter and race mode. While that bit may have been true-- what I hadn't anticipated is that the mirror rattles like mad! AHHH! Maybe it's because it's on a bike with 23mm tires (skinny!) running at least 100psi (hard!). But that's my set up on that bike-- so this mirror became a dud. Drats!

So back to the best mirror in the world. Great things about the mirror:

• It's big enough to actually see something.
• It mounts away from the bike, so all you have to do is glance (not squirm or tilt your head) to see what you want to see.
• It is mountable on top of bar tape, so it does not rattle and make your view blurry.
• It is always there-- doesn't rely on wearing a certain helmet or pair of sunglasses.
• Compatible with just about any bike set up.

Only downsides:

• This summer, while on tour, we did find that we had to continually retighten the clamp as it would slowly loosen and move around. However, I've had it for several months on fresh bar tape (not two layers of bar tape like this summer) and have never had to reset it.

Other tips:

• I have my mirror mounted at the very end of my bar. It doesn't really get in my way and I like the view it gives me. My touring buddy ended up moving hers further up the bar and liked the view better and didn't find that it got in her way too badly. So play around with your mounting spot.

Buy it:

• You can buy this mirror online at Adventure Cycling's online store, or
• Buy it at Gregg's Cycle in Seattle, Bellevue or Lynnwood, WA. (I work at the Bellevue location.)

Count the Ways

Count the ways you can commute!

My cyclocross bike, turned road, turned commuter.

Working at Gregg's Bellevue Cycle, I meet customers who are looking for a commuter bike. Before leading them to a bike that is marketed as a "commuter bike," I first ask, "how do you want to commute?" because the truth is-- there are so many ways to commute! 

• How far do you want to commute? No more than a few miles? Or 30 miles a day, round-trip?
  
• Are you commuting only to and from work or for other errands as well?
  
• Do you want to be able to carry anything? How much? 
  
• Is your commute long or hard enough to warrant cycling specific clothing?
  
• Will you combo your commute with public transit?
  
• Will you be an all-weather or fair-weather rider?
• Do you prefer to take your time or get there as fast as you can?

Only after answering these sorts of questions, do we begin our tour of various bikes suited for commuting-- because really, you can commute on anything! 

While I lived in Walla Walla, WA, a small town in Eastern Washington, I commuted primarily on my Xtracycle. My job and lifestyle often required transporting "stuff," whether it be bicycles or groceries-- and the Xtracycle did it all. But I never had to go very far, nor take public transit.

Now that I live north of Seattle, WA and work in the city-- my bike commute involves 50 minutes of bicycling and 50 minutes on a bus. Sadly, I don't interact with the town I live in very much, nor do my own grocery shopping, so I haven't used my Xtracycle since living here. It also doesn't fit on the bus. If I lived closer to my place of work, I'd likely be riding it every day-- as it's fun to ride and will hold whatever I care to toss in it. 

The bikes that I have been riding since I adopted this new commute are my touring bike, cyclocross bike and folding bike. 

My TREK 520 touring bike is outfitted like a "traditional" (stereotypical?) commuter. It sports a rack and panniers; wide, fast and comfy flat-resistant tires; full fenders; a comfortable, efficient and stable geometry; a saddle that feels good with khakis or bike shorts; various reflective stickers; a safety triangle; serious lighting to the front rear and side; and 'flip-flop' pedals-- one side platform, one side SPD (clipless). This bike is ready to commute!

My DAHON SPEED D7 I use when all I need to do is ride two miles into town to catch the bus, meet a friend and toss it in their trunk. Conveniently, it also has (teeny tiny) fenders and a (teeny tiny) rack. I don't wear bike-specific clothing when riding the Dahon (except, perhaps a rain jacket and ankle strap), because I'm not ever riding it very far.

My Jamis Supernova Cyclocross Bike I use when I don't need or want to carry much or anything at all-- and I want to ride FAST. I don full-on cycling gear (Smartwool cycling knickers, jersey, wind jacket, gloves..) because it's comfortable, flexible and it's something to sweat in. Sometimes I wear my CamelBak (Hawg NV) with my work clothes stuffed in it and sometimes I drop off my clothes at work on a day when I drive in, so that I don't have to carry anything at all. I am fortunate that Gregg's supplies a shower and lockers for their employees! 

So you, see-- there are MANY ways to commute. None wrong, all different. What suits you?

Traffic Scenario

ORANGE HUMMER: "Do do doo.. Hmm, I'm going to turn left after the red hummer passes because I don't see anything behind it."

ORANGE HUMMER: "La la laa.. Hmm, looks like there is something behind that red hummer, because there is a bright white light coming from behind it.. probably a Light & Motion Stella 300 Dual or something.. I think I will wait to turn until I see what it is."

Second most likely cause of car/bike interaction (second to the cyclist riding the wrong way on the street).. driver turning LEFT into the cyclist.

The other day in the bike shop, we met a guy who has been riding around Mercer Island at night with his front light OFF to "preserve his night vision." Okay, guy, I'm sure that DOES improve YOUR night vision.. but not of those cars pulling out of driveways. The guy said he "turns his light back on when there are cars around." What, do you turn it on when you're on their HOOD? b'AAAAHH!!!

Bike on the Bus

Morning Glow

Loading my bike onto the bus from Rebecca Jensen on Vimeo.

I have to admit, there was a time when loading my bike on the bus was intimidating. What if I take too long? How do I get it on there? Will it really stay on?

A: You won't, it's easy and YES.

All ya' do is: 

1).  pull the rack down (probably gotta squeeze the lever)

2). plop your bike in the wheel wells

3). tug on the spring-loaded thinger

4). and snug that down on top of your wheel, close to your brakes/frame (see picture in video)

I don't even have to take my panniers off! (So long as they're not loaded down too heavy). I do take my Light & Motion lights off, though. While they are very weather-proof, they're not cheap.

Bicycle Parking in Downtown Seattle!

I have discovered something wonderful. 

In downtown Seattle, next to (and operated by) the Bicycle Alliance of Washington, is a cool place that I can't tell you the name of because they're re-branding soon. BUT! I can tell you how cool it is.

It's simple-- a parking service for bicycles. Yes, I know-- part of the convenience of bicycles is that you can park them just about anywhere and for free. However, one of the inconveniences of parking your bike anywhere is that your bike and everything on it is subject to theft, especially at night. And I really like my bike. And all of the stuff on it.

Enter the un-named bicycle parking service. Between the hours of 9am-5pm, you can park your bike inside a staffed building for FREE. Your bike is out of the elements and under the eye of video cameras and staff (though they do not guarantee security, you are still encouraged to lock your bike and take your valuables). The facility is locked from 5pm to 9am, but if you become a member, you gain 24-hour access by means of a swipe card. You can become an annual, monthly or pay-per-use member. Since I don't visit Seattle too often, I opted for the pay-per-use plan.

Bicycle Parking Downtown Seattle from Rebecca Jensen on Vimeo.

I paid a $20 annual fee, then purchased a $20 bundle of 10 overnight uses. So anytime I want to visit downtown Seattle, I pay TWO DOLLARS for parking ($4 if you include the annual fee) and that's only if I plan on staying past 5. If my destination is not in walking distance from the facility, I can just hop on one of the FREE downtown buses. Awesome.

Additional features include:

• An in-house bike shop-- for parts, accessories and service
  
• Lockers for monthly and annual members
  
• A workstand and tools for member use
  
• A vending machine with bike supplies for when the shop is closed
  
• A warm and spacious changing room
  

I look forward to the day when these are more common than an ugly car parking garage!

How to Wash Your Bicycle

For the quick-ZIP!-video, scroll to the bottom!

Seems like a simple thing: washing your bicycle. But there are a few nuances in bicycle washing worth knowing that can make your bike so fresh and so clean, clean.

BIKE WASHING MATERIALS

• Bucket filled with dish soap and hot water
  
• Rubber gloves
  
• Degreaser  ..chain-specific also available by Park Tool.
  
• Rubbing alcohol  ..the United Bicycle Institute uses this as a general degreaser. I just use it on my rims.
  
• Windex  ..for mirrors
  
• Pine Sol (not pictured)  ..for bar tape. I used Windex.
  
• Bike-specific lube  ..WD-40 is NOT lube!!
  
• Sponge or rag
  
• Scrubbing tools  
  
• Medical rag  ..commonly used by mechanics. Does not leave lint behind!
  
• Sandpaper, found in patch kit (oops! not initially pictured)  ..for buffing brake pads.

STEP ONE

Frame
Using a rag/sponge, wash your bike frame with soapy water, top to bottom. Stay away from your drivetrain (chain, derailleurs, etc.) until the end because it will only muddy up your soap water in a jiffy. If you don't have a work stand or kick stand, propping your bike upside-down works well. Also, remove the wheels for better access. Places where dirt likes to collect around: 

1. Brakes
2. Underneath, near the bottom bracket (the axis that your cranks/pedals go 'round)
3. Derailleurs (the do-dads that shift your gears, both front and rear).

STEP TWO

Wheels

Again, with a rag and soapy water-- wash your sidewalls (sides of tire), rim, whatever you can get at. For the cassette (cogs), you'll use degreaser. Mild soap is not strong enough. Spray degreaser on the edge of a shop/medical rag and "floss." A scrub tool helps here, too. Finish with a spongy rinse. For the rims, I prefer to use rubbing alcohol because it leaves no soapy residue (like degreaser or soap) which is no good for a braking surface. Degreaser is fine, though, so long as you take care to rinse it off.

STEP TWO POINT FIVE

Brake Pads

After moderate use, especially in wet conditions, brake pads can become "glazed" and lose that grippy rubber texture. Use the sandpaper from your patch kit to buff the brake pad, then wipe away the residue with alcohol. 

STEP THREE

Chain/drivetrain

Remount your wheels (take care to re-engage your brakes!). If you don't have a rear-mount kickstand or a workstand, turn your bike upside-down so that you can freely pedal the bike backwards.

1. Spray degreaser onto a shop/medical rag.
2. Run the chain through the rag, holding both the top/bottom and sides of the chain.
3. Use a scrubber for tough gunk.
4. While you've got the scrubber out, scrub the jockey wheels (see rear derailleur) and chain rings (front cogs).
5. Give a good rinse! You don't want degreaser hanging out on your chain, pushing off lube when you apply it.
6. Lube! Bike-specific lube. WD-40 is NOT lube. You want the (bike) lube to get INSIDE the chain, not outside.. so after you give it a few spins..
7. Wipe off the excess! Lube on the outside only collects dirt.

STEP FOUR

Mirror

Give that mirror a shine. 

Bar Tape

Spray and scrub. I used Windex, but I have also heard that Pine Sol, blue Dawn dish soap and plain degreaser can brighten your bars.

WHY WASH YOUR BIKE

Washing your bike is about more than looks, it keeps your bike functioning properly. In particular, your drivetrain and brakes/rims need regular attention in order to shift smoothly and brake quickly. Also, washing your bike is an opportunity to check-up. You might notice that your brake pad was misaligned or that your cassette is worn down. If you find any problems beyond your mechanical knowledge, it is also nice to hand your bike mechanic a CLEAN bicycle. They really appreciate that.

Now, in quick-ZIP!-video-form!

How to Wash Your Bicycle from Rebecca Jensen on Vimeo.

Bicycle Light Comparison

Light Comparison from Rebecca Jensen on Vimeo.

Here is a light comparison of my bike with:

1. No lights
2. Cheap lights
3. Good lights

"Cheap lights" = one red Blackburn Mars 3.0 light and a Blackburn front light that runs on AAA batteries. 

"Good lights" =  adds a Planet Bike SuperFlash to the Blackburn rear and uses a Light & Motion Stella 300 Dual (rechargeable Lithium-Ion battery) on the front. 

Other lights featured are the Planet Bike BRT Strap and an amber Down Low Glow from Rock the Bike.

Conclusions from this demo:

• Cheap lights work okay (so long as you keep feeding them batteries) front and rear, but have basically no side visibility.
• Cheap front lights drown in headlights.
• Good lights work great front and rear and provide some side visibility.
• Good lights continue to be seen even when flooded by headlights or competing with sign lights, etc.
• The Down Low Glow provides some flippin' AWESOME side-vis and a wide spot beneath you, discouraging cars from getting too close.
• Also note that I wore dark blue jeans and a black jacket for this demo. While I do own neon cycling clothing, I don't rely on it as my (only) source of visibility. It's best to have your BIKE always be visible so that you can wear whatever you fancy.

Notes on reflective parts (which I didn't include in the video, oops!):

• Reflective sidewalls on front tire (Schwalbe Marathon)
• Reflective/light-up ankle strap
• Orange reflective tape on frame
• Blue reflective "slap bracelets" on head tube
• Reflective detail on trunk bag
• Reflective rear triangle (with a dowel slid in to hold its shape)

Why Bicycle Crashes Happen-- Part TWO

This is a follow up to my original post, "Why Bicycle Crashes Happen". 

Out of all bicycle crashes, only 17% actually involve a motor vehicle. This video breaks down that 17% into the various causes AND shows that each cause (even when "the motorist's fault") is quite avoidable! My use of "avoidable" is to say that there is something you can do to help prevent it from happening. It is NOT to say that it is 100% avoidable. Now, without further ado..

Why Bicycle Crashes Happen (and how to avoid them) Part TWO from Rebecca Jensen on Vimeo.

Why (bicycle) Crashes Happen!

A week ago, I took a class from the League of American Bicyclists in order to become a certified League Cycling Instructor and teach classes such as Traffic Safety, Bicycle Commuting, etc. As students, we took turns giving presentations on the material. One of the topics I was assigned was statistics. While the feedback I got was, "you did a great job of making something boring really interesting!" I was thinking, "..but I think statistics ARE really interesting.."

AND enlightening!

By studying statistics, we can discover the most common causes of bicycle crashes and learn how to AVOID them!

Here is a video I made that breaks down the basic statistics of why bicycle crashes happen. There will be more videos in the future that go more in depth. This is Part One of a series.

Why BICYCLE Crashes Happen, Part One from Rebecca Jensen on Vimeo.

The complete list of why bike/car collisions happen (and how to avoid them) is posted over on my blog for Trek!

The Sidewalk: Part 2

In a recent post, I abhorred riding on the sidewalk for its hidden dangers. I expressed that I deemed cycling on the sidewalk instead of on the road to be inappropriate and unsafe unless:

What if the road you are on is just really, really terrible? What if you've chosen the best route possible and you just have to ride along this crummy street and riding in the road spells s-c-a-r-y a-s s-h-i-t. And to top it off, you're an experienced commuter that understands the risks of riding on the sidewalk and will take special precautions to prevent these particular dangers.

Then, YES-- in my PERSONAL opinion.. I think that it would be appropriate to ride on the sidewalk.

HOWEVER! Amy, one of the wonderful (and fellow) Trek Women Who Ride, pointed  this out to me in a comment:

Hey RJ! I agree - cyclists on the sidewalk (especially going the opposite way!!!) are generally not a good idea. However, I do have my daughter ride on the sidewalk while I'm in the road (going with traffic on the right side). I take her on-road when I feel it's safe, but overall I just find kids to be way too unpredictable to have in the road. Even responsible and knowledgeable (my daughter's been urban biking for half her little 6 year old life) kids on bikes make mistakes that could be disastrous - swerving out to avoid something, not paying attention, etc. I do teach her to be on the lookout for cars coming out of driveways and parking lots (and I look too), and she MUST ask pedestrians for the right to pass when coming up behind them. That's the only time I see sidewalk riding as necessary. I haven't really had any experiences as an adult that I felt was safer on a sidewalk, but I live in a pretty bike friendly place. Anyway, good blog!!

I absolutely agree with everything that Amy said! The demographic that I was scolding (in my mind) for riding on the sidewalk were those 13 years old and up. But what DO you do when you got a wee little one and they really DON'T know how to behave in traffic? A trailer or a tag-a-long only work for so long until they need to ride on their own. I think that Amy's solves the problem well by riding WITH her daughter. Amy can act as the adult eyes and ears for her daughter, while motorists are more likely to see Amy and stop when appropriate.

But REALLY what we need-- is better bicycling infrastructure. In the Netherlands, the kids go on FIELD TRIPS by BICYCLE. And no, they're not wearing helmets-- that's because cycling is so, so much safer there (and it's fairly safe even here!). In the Netherlands, it would be like wearing a helmet to walk down the stairs.

Riding on the Sidewalk

Riding on the sidewalk is usually not only a faux pas, but in many or most situations can be extremely dangerous compared to riding on the road. That's why my heart sinks and my head feels conflicted whenever I see a kid (or adult!) riding AGAINST traffic on the sidewalk. I'm sure that mom or dad told them that riding on the sidewalk would be safest and riding against traffic so that you could "see" the cars would be best. What these parents don't know is that riding against traffic while on the sidewalk is just about the worst place you could be. Or just riding on the sidewalk, period.

Why?

Traffic, especially cross-traffic, doesn't see you. When a car pulls out from a business, the driver scans THE ROAD and NOT the sidewalk for vehicular traffic. Even if the driver checks for pedestrians, cyclists are speedier and could be out of sight one moment and on a car hood the next. Similarly, if a car wants to pull into a business, generally drivers are NOT checking the sidewalk for fast moving traffic.

HOWEVER--

What if the road you are on is just really, really terrible? What if you've chosen the best route possible and you just have to ride along this crummy street and riding in the road spells s-c-a-r-y  a-s  s-h-i-t. And to top it off, you're an experienced commuter that understands the risks of riding on the sidewalk and will take special precautions to prevent these particular dangers.

Then, YES-- in my PERSONAL opinion.. I think that it would be appropriate to ride on the sidewalk. I have done so in this very situation I've described. However, I don't come across this situation very often. I am usually very good at route selection and I am not shy about "taking my lane," as it is my legal right to do so. I'll write more about "taking the lane" in the future-- in short, it's when you ride in the MIDDLE of the traffic lane instead of the right third. This forces traffic to have to change lanes and go AROUND you instead of trying to squeeze you off the road.

Interestingly enough, one of our "bike paths" here in Walla Walla is along Dalles Military Road. It's basically an extra-wide sidewalk that bikes are supposedly expected to use. I didn't know that it was such a "shared use path" until it was pointed out to me by a City engineer during a Bicycle/Pedestrian Committee meeting. My response was, "you want me to ride on THAT? How am I supposed to make a left turn??" Not to mention-- it trains cyclists to think that it's okay to ride on the sidewalk all the time. And it tells cars that bikes don't belong on the road. In reality, Dalles Military Road actually has a HUGE shoulder and there is PLENTY of room for two lanes AND a bike lane.. and maybe even a parking lane too (if they hadn't put in the glorified sidewalk).

Now, if this "shared use path" actually looked and was marked as a shared use path-- like the Copenhagen-style cycle path that is now being installed in Portland..

Graphic designed by the folks over at BikeHacks, one of my favorite blogs!

Well, you see-- a cycle track is separate from pedestrians, protected from traffic by parked cars and marked heavily so that cars know to expect bicycles there. The Dalles Military sidewalk is none of these things.

The real solution to this whole problem, would be for our towns and cities to spend an appropriate amount of money on bicycle infrastructure (instead of straightening out curvy roads that are TOTALLY FINE.. *ahem). But until then-- we do our best with what we've got..

and complain about it 'til it changes. :)

You're TWICE as likely to die driving a car than riding a bicycle

Alan over at EcoVelo just posted these statistics from Failure Analysis Associates. I've been looking for something like this. When I am talking to someone who is considering bicycle commuting, one of the most familiar "but" excuses I hear is, "but it just seems so dangerous!" The best I ever could come up with was, 

well, it's all about the routes you choose and being a smart cyclist. And I feel like I'm safer on a bike anyway-- I ride like cars can't see me and am less prone to take the risks we take in cars.. and I'm sure there are some statistics somewhere that show that driving is probably more dangerous anyway.. and you get better long term health from riding a bike...

WELL. Here are those statistics I've been grabbing for! You're twice as likely to die while driving a car-- but you don't say, "oh, I don't want to drive to work.. it just seems so dangerous!"

Activity Fatalities Per Million Hours

• Skydiving 128.71
  
• General Aviation 15.58
  
• On-road Motorcycling 8.80
  
• Scuba Diving 1.98
  
• Living (all causes of death) 1.53
  
• Swimming 1.07
  
• Snowmobiling .88
  
• Automobile Driving .47
  
• Water Skiing .28
  
• Bicycling .26
  
• Flying (domestic airlines) .15
  
• Hunting .08
  

Bicycling also provides long term health benefits that driving doesn't. It's also a LOT better for the health of the environment. And it's just more fun.

This is me, and this is my bike.

Here is the text to this short video:

Hi, I'm RJ and this is my bike.

It has flat pedals so that I can wear sneakers, and fenders to keep them dry.

On my handlebars, I keep a little bag for small things, a white bike light to use at night, and an air horn, in case I need to be heard by inattentive drivers. It's REALLY LOUD.

On the back of my bike are two red bike lights and a reflective triangle that help me be seen from behind.

I also have an orange light tube that helps me be seen from the side at night.

On the back I have an Xtracycle that can hold a LOT of stuff!

...

There are some things that I always keep with me in my Xtracycle.

...

Sometimes I wear spandex when I ride my bicycle.. and, sometimes I don't.

These are bike shoes, and so are these.

These are bike gloves, and so are these.

This is a cycling jacket, and so is this.

It doesn't matter what you wear, as long as you're safe and warm.

...

...

If I can't carry something on my Xtracycle, I use my bike trailer.

...

I even ride my bike when it snows.

I just put on some studded tires.. and make sure to dress real' warm.

Now why would I do that?

Well, because all I know, is that when I ride my bicycle, I'm in a much better mood than most people in those stinky ol' cars.

Some of the products seen in this video:

• Planet Bike SuperFlash
  
• Down Low Glow
  
• Bikes at Work bicycle trailer
  
• Surly Long Haul Trucker
  
• Xtracycle
  
• Studded Tires
  
• Safety triangle
  
• Air Zounds bicycle air horn
  

And don't forget, when possible, SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL BICYCLE SHOP! ;)

Bike Lights

I'm a big fan of Planet Bike's red rear bike light, "Super Flash" (or better yet, "Super Flash STEALTH"!). It's got the best everything (flash mode, brightness, mount, long battery life) and a reasonable price ($30). Also, Planet Bike gives 25% of profits to bicycle advocacy AND, more importantly, 4 of their 5 employees ride Xtracycles. AND I just got some SICK (that means "awesome") winter gloves by Planet Bike that I'm really excited about. Review pending.

And if you really want to Geek Out, you can watch this comparison of 3 different rear lights, including the Super Flash:

Anyway.
I have yet to come across a front light that I would recommend (that doesn't cost a ton of money). I did find it quite ingenius, or maybe obvious, that Planet Bike included this information on their website:

(Just a sampling..)






Yeah, before you get excited, that last one costs $400.

Okay, yes I did drop $100 a few months ago for a Down Low Glow.. but that was for SIDE visibility and so I could be COOL.

Also, while we're on the topic- there is a light I'm interested in that runs on MAGNETIC power. You may have heard of DYNAMO lights: lights that get power either from a reel rubbing against your tire or a special hub installed in your wheel. The main disadvantage of these has been that they would turn off when you stop riding (but you still need to see! ..or be seen) but this problem has been worked out and dynamos now usually know how to store power for while you're stopped. The magnetic light has this figured out as well, with the added plus that there is no increased friction from a reel rubbing your tire! Hoorah! However, I don't know much about how BRIGHT these lights are. It's a Danish product and those Danes are more about practicality than about overkill like us Americans.

Preparing for Rain

The fenders have officially been living on my commuter for a few weeks now. I took my fenders off for the summer and after the first reminder of rain, they scampered back on.

The rain had only been teasing.

We've had a dry, dry fall so far and I haven't really had to deal with commuting in the rain and looking presentable afterwards. You see, dressing for rain as a recreational/competitive cyclist (at which I have more experience) is completely different than dressing for bicycle commuting. First of all, you're working much harder (we presume) on a recreational ride and secondly it doesn't matter if you show up to the coffee shop with a mud face and sopping shorts. The added tricks of bicycle commuting is that you don't want to be sweaty, soppy or muddy. We presume.

Keeping the mud away isn't terribly difficult. Some cool fenders and mud flaps should keep the dirt off your slacks. However, sweat and sop pose the problem. A lot of rain wear is not terrific at ventilating. If you're not wet from rain, you're wet from sweat! Also, vanity must be considered. A lot of rain wear is just plain geeky and how are we going to promote bicycle use if you look like an astronaut?

I've been thinking for a long time about getting a "rain cape" such as one made by Carradice in the UK or stocked by the Center for Appropriate Transportation in Eugene, OR. A rain cape is basically a poncho that is looped over your handlebars, to create a sort of portable tent over yourself. This keeps your torso and thighs dry, but your lower legs can still be vulnerable to road spray. Booties and spats, as stocked by CityBikes in Portland, OR solve that problem too. 

It seems to me that the cape/spat combo should keep you dry without cooping you up in a hot, sweaty rain jacket and pants. So why am I writing about these products theoretically instead of having already purchased and tested them? First, I'm wondering what details a 'cycling

 specific' rain cape will have to make it worth $70 instead of a cheap basic poncho. Second, while I see the value in high-visibility yellow, I'd like to look at least halfway chic on my bicycle.

Tire Inflation & Helmet Safety

This is a helpful video from Trek's new program, 1 World 2 Wheels: Go By Bike Challenge. Follow the link to find more great information on bicycle commuting AND pledge to ride your bike and you just might win a new Trek commuter!

Also, this Tuesday (@ 6pm, meeting at the corner of 1st & Main St) Bike Thyme will be riding out to Welcome Table Farm! Man, these guys have the bestest eggs. Don't miss this one!!

How to turn your bicycle into a COMMUTING bicycle

This is my bike. It is a special bike. While the prominent feature is its useful carrying capacity (200lbs), there are lots of little, but important things that make my bike a commuting bike.

FRONT LIGHT. If you're going to commute by bicycle you should be prepared to ride in low-light conditions. A good light helps you not only to be seen, but also to help you see. I have been very happy with my Blackburn Voyager 3.0. For $30 at your local bicycle shop, you get a lot of light for your money. The only downside is that the "blink" mode makes me nauseous and I only turn it on briefly to catch the attention of oncoming drivers in very dark conditions. Otherwise I leave it on the "steady" mode and I love how it lights up the roadway for me (for not very much money!). It also mounts easily and I carry extra AAA batteries in case it dies mid-ride.

UPDATE, April 25, 2009: The Blackburn Voyager 3.0 initially provides a lot of light, but it's a "battery eater!" I am currently using a PrinctonTec light that has 3 mount options: helmet, handlebars, headlamp. I am also eyeing a Cat Eye light that my friend has. Keep an eye on the "gear reviews" section for an updated light review!

REAR LIGHT. Again, a commuter must be prepared for low-light conditions. Not only can a white front light and red rear light save your life, it's actually the law. I outfit my bike with two Planet Bike Blinky Super Flash rear lights which I love. They are the brightest red lights I've seen and come with an eye-catching crazy blinking option (bu-bu-BLINK!#BLINK!%, bu-bu-BLINK!#) as opposed to a rhythmic (blink. blink. blink.) that's easier to miss. They also mount really easily. It's not in this picture, but I've also added a safety triangle to the back of my bike which increases my visibility any time day or night. The reflective orange tape was also my addition and it is extremely reflective. I also used it on my Bikes at Work bicycle trailer. You can find some online at Identi-tape.

PUMP. A hand pump is part of the complete flat kit. If you're going to commute by bicycle, you need to know to fix a flat tire. The things I carry to fix a flat are basically: something to get the tire off, something to patch a hole, a spare tube if that doesn't work out and air to pump it up. I also carry back-ups for some things (like 2 sources of air) in case one doesn't work out. More specifically, this is what I carry:

• Pump. I like my Wrench Force frame pump because it has a large shaft which makes pumping up your tire go faster (forget those tiny ones!). It also works on presta or shrader valves and fits nicely into my frame (which is amazing because my frame is SMALL!).
• 2 CO2 cartridges & an applicator. This is a fast, yet wasteful and risky way to pump a tire. I keep it as a backup or if I need to get back on my bike fast (rainstorm!).
• Tire levers. You only need 2 (or sometimes 1) to get a tire off, but it is best to carry 3 in case one breaks.
• A "old fashioned" glue patch kit and the "new school" stick-on patch kit. Either work. What can I say? I like back-ups.
• An extra tube in case your tire is not patchable or you're in a hurry (rainstorm!).

To learn HOW to fix a flat, I recommend asking someone to show you how. I've also posted this helpful video.

MAP, ADDITIONAL VISIBILITY & RAIN GEAR. Having an Xtracycle sure is handy-- there are handy pockets for keeping handy things. I keep a bright yellow rain jacket (the sleeves zip off!), a safety triangle (I kept it in there for passengers but now it's just mounted on the back of my bike. I may purchase another.), a bright orange poncho I bought at the thriftstore for $1 (again, for passengers or perhaps to cover & protect a load) and a map of Walla Walla.

(NOT PICTURED): FENDERS. I take them off for the hot, dry summer months- but for the rest of the year, I keep my butt and feet dry by installing fenders! For complete protection, I recommend mud flaps to stay extra dry. I am also eyeing these rain chaps or this rain cape or this nifty rain cape and spats (scroll down) for the next wet season which I would then keep tucked away on my bike.

(NOT PICTURED): BUNGEES. I keep lots of bungees in different lengths to help strap on awkward loads.

 PEDALS. The folks down at Rivendell Bicycle Works are adamant that bike shoes & pedals really aren't necessary and don't actually help much (in non-racing use)-- though I do love using them on my racing bike. On my racing bike. Otherwise- these simple yet grippy platform pedals are wonderful for hopping on in whatever you're wearing.

(NOT PICTURED): KICKSTAND. Again, no one is racing, so there is no reason to "save weight" and neglect to install a kickstand! They are superbly handy when parking your bike and are of great assistance when trying to load your groceries!

CARRYING CAPACITY. There are lots of ways to carry things on your bicycle. That's a whole post of its own, but to brief you.. a front basket, a rack and basket, a rack and panniers, a bicycle trailer, an Xtracycle, a bakfiet or cargo bike, or a very large bicycle trailer for those XXL loads (like your mattress and box spring). Also note the gray tape on my bags. I used strong fabric glue to adhere some reflective fabric tape to increase my side visibility. I bought the tape from Identi-tape.

PASSENGERS. Okay, so maybe not everybody's bike can do this- and you don't really need to just to commute.. but it sure is nice to be able to take passengers on your bicycle! Another solution for larger parties is just to bring along another bicycle (or two, or three!).

If you can think of any other 'essentials' to bicycle commuting or have questions about anything I've listed, please leave a comment!

Oh, and since we don't live in Copenhagen, please wear a HELMET!

What makes a good commuting bike?

-Frame design (geometry) that is relaxed & comfortable yet speedy.
Sitting more upright takes strain off of your back, but sitting too far upright pretty much kills your speed. But you're not trying to win a race, you're just trying to get to the grocery store in a timely manner. Somewhere in the middle is nice.

-Good city tires.
Really fat & tready mountain tires just slow you down and work harder. Super hard & skinny road racing tires may make your butt feel more of the bumps in the road while not being able to support heavy loads. A good compromise is in-between. Something about 1.5" give or take with indented treads is nice.

-A rack! &/or basket &/or panniers &/or trailer &/or Xtracycle.
Some sort of Carrying Stuff System so that you can use your bike more & your car less.

-Fenders.
Keeps your feet & butt dry, need I say more? Rain shouldn't deter you from riding your bike!

-Lights, front & rear.
It's not only the law, but it may save your life.

-Understated graphics.
Flashy paint jobs invite theft. Go understated.

-Flat kit.
A good cyclists is prepared. Don't just carry what you need to fix a flat, know how to do it!

-Gears.
Unless you're not going to carry much weight, travel far or go uphill- gears sure are helpful. You don't need a ton of them, just some of them.

-Weight?
I am hesitant to add this to the list, because I don't mean to say that bikes need to be so light as to merit carbon fiber.. but rather, big cruisers can weigh a TON while a reasonable commuter will ride quicker. Cruisers are fun, unless you're trying to get somewhere quickly.

Here are some examples of awesome commuter bikes I spied on the Whitman College campus.. they could use a few more items like lights, fenders, flat kits etc. but are great candidates for five-star commuters.